Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
